Trends in Sustainable Fashion. Interview with Blaze Palka

Hi Blaze, thank you for making time for this chat. Let’s start with painting the big picture when it comes to sustainability in fashion. What are the most pressing environmental impacts of the fashion industry today, and how do they compare to other industries?

The fashion industry is at the center of a significant environmental challenge, balancing its allure with its heavy ecological impact. Overproduction, textile waste, and the relentless pursuit of new trends have transformed clothing into a disposable commodity. Unlike cars, which are often valued and kept for years, fashion now moves as quickly as daily essentials like groceries. This use-and-discard mentality drives resource depletion and cements fashion as one of the world’s top polluters. Tackling this issue demands a shift in perspective—from chasing short-lived trends to embracing timeless, durable essentials.

How do ethical concerns like labor rights and overproduction intersect with sustainability issues in fashion?

Sustainability is a complex ecosystem, and everything within it connects—like a web of cause and effect. At its core is the triple bottom line: people, planet, and profit. Labour rights fall under the "people" pillar, focusing on equality, fair wages, and safe working conditions. Overproduction strains the "planet" pillar, depleting natural resources and contributing to pollution. Then there’s "profit"—without which even the most well-meaning sustainability programs would crumble. This is why sustainability must balance environmental stewardship with economic viability. If it doesn’t, it becomes a nonprofit cause rather than a scalable, long-lasting solution.

Can you share any examples of brands or initiatives that have successfully addressed both environmental and ethical challenges?

The term "sustainability" is often a moving target due to the lack of standard regulations. That said, I admire brands implementing Digital Product Passports (DPPs), a tool that enables full traceability and transparency. Coach and Alexander McQueen have led the charge with DPP adoption, offering customers insight into their garments' lifecycle—from sourcing to recycling. B-Corp brands, such as Chloé, also deserve recognition for embedding social and environmental considerations at every stage of production. These companies are proving that fashion can be both beautiful and ethical.

Let’s explore the topic of Digital Product Passports you’ve mentioned. Can you explain what Digital Product Passports (DPPs) are, and how do they work in the fashion industry?

DPPs are essentially a garment’s digital birth certificate, containing details about its entire lifecycle—from raw materials to disposal options. These passports can be accessed through QR codes or NFC tags, allowing consumers to make informed decisions with a quick scan. It’s a way to bring sustainability front and center, making it accessible and transparent.

↑ That's how a Digital Product Passport looks like on Chloé website

What benefits do DPPs bring to consumers, regulators, and brands alike?

For consumers, DPPs provide transparency and guidance on garment care and recycling. Regulators benefit from simplified compliance monitoring, and brands gain valuable data on customer engagement and product longevity. DPPs also support resale and repair programs, helping brands foster circularity and build lasting customer relationships.

Can you share examples of technologies or brands leading the way in integrating DPPs into their supply chains?

Many brands are stepping up. EON, and Reflaunt have been leaders in incorporating DPPs. Following up on Chloé's example I mentioned earlier, their collaboration with EON enabled real-time tracking of garment information via QR codes, enhancing transparency. Reflaunt, a resale technology pioneer, uses DPPs to streamline resale processes and authenticate items. By partnering with platforms like Vestiaire Collective, luxury brands are ensuring that second-hand buyers have confidence in the authenticity and history of their purchases. This innovation not only builds trust but also strengthens the resale market.

I assume, like every new technology, DPPs implementation poses some challenges. What challenges might brands face when adopting DPPs, and how can these be overcome?

Implementing DPPs can be costly and complex, requiring changes in design, manufacturing, and logistics. Smaller brands may struggle with the upfront investment. Consumer adoption is another hurdle—many shoppers aren’t familiar with DPPs. Education is key here. Simple, interactive experiences that show consumers how to access product data can drive adoption. Additionally, brands can start with pilot programs for select collections before scaling up as a learning curve.

The European Union and the United States have been introducing regulations that introduce sustainability in the industry. The impact will spread across the globe. How exactly is the European Union’s Circular Economy Action Plan influencing the global fashion industry?

The EU’s Circular Economy Action Plan is a game-changer. It mandates sustainable product design and holds brands accountable through Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR). Key regulations, such as the "Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation" and the "Textile Strategy," compel brands to reduce waste, increase recyclability, and design garments with longer life spans. These regulations signal a shift away from fast fashion, with the EU aiming to phase out unsustainable practices by 2030. Brands that fail to adapt risk falling behind in an industry that is rapidly embracing sustainability.

And what about what’s happening across the pond? What U.S. policies are making the biggest impact on addressing textile waste and ethical labor practices?

In the U.S., California’s Garment Worker Protection Act has made significant strides by enforcing fair wages and holding brands accountable for subcontracted labour. The proposed Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act in New York aims to mandate disclosures about supply chains and environmental impact. Though the U.S. lags behind the EU in terms of comprehensive policies, these initiatives represent important steps toward transparency and ethical reform and quite possibly a global movement towards a more ethical consumption.

How are regulations like Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and anti-greenwashing guidelines reshaping the industry?

EPR regulations place the financial responsibility for waste management on brands, pushing them to rethink how they design, produce, and dispose of products. Meanwhile, anti-greenwashing guidelines, like the EU’s Green Claims Directive, demand that brands substantiate sustainability claims with hard data rather than vague promises. These policies foster transparency, prevent misleading marketing, and compel brands to align their operations with genuine sustainable practices.

Introducing new regulations always comes with a set of challenges. What changes brands have to introduce when complying with these regulations, and how can they turn these into opportunities for innovation?

Complying with sustainability regulations requires significant investment in supply chain restructuring and data collection—no small feat, especially for smaller brands. However, these regulations also provide opportunities for innovation. For example, brands can introduce closed-loop recycling programs or expand into resale markets. By partnering with tech companies for traceability solutions, brands can not only meet compliance requirements but also enhance consumer trust and loyalty. This evolution isn’t just a challenge; it’s a chance to become pioneers in sustainable fashion.

We’ll come back to the topic of innovation in fashion later, but for now let’s circle to consumer behavior and the effect it has on storytelling. You’ve been working directly with well-known brands. What recent shifts have you observed in consumer priorities toward sustainable fashion?

Consumers today are more discerning than ever. They scrutinise labels, research brand ethics, and prioritise cruelty-free options, particularly in materials. Animal welfare has taken center stage, driven by the rise of vegan lifestyles and the emotional connection people have with their pets. One study revealed that over 50% of consumers rank animal-friendly fashion above other ethical concerns. This trend underscores the importance of transparency—not only about the impact on people but also on animals.

How have movements like conscious consumption affected the way brands operate?

Conscious consumption has rewritten the rulebook for brands. They’re now expected to answer questions like “Who made this?” and “What’s it made of?” with full transparency. But mapping a supply chain isn’t easy—it’s more like solving a 1,000-piece puzzle. And reporting on it is an even bigger quest with hundreds of data points. However, this pressure to be open has led to deeper audits, more transparent sourcing, and consumer-facing reports that demystify the production process. The result? Consumers are more likely to trust and stay loyal to brands that prioritise openness over secrecy.

What role does storytelling play in educating consumers about sustainability, and can you share examples of effective campaigns?

Storytelling is a bridge between information and emotion—it turns statistics into something relatable. In my master’s research, I looked at the influence of communication strategies related to plastic microfiber pollution and sustainable material usage on consumer awareness and brand perception. What stood out to me is that storytelling plays a pivotal role. Brands need to start by educating their audience on the core issues, transparently sharing where they currently stand, how they’re addressing these challenges (if they are), and presenting realistic, actionable steps that customers can incorporate into their own lives. The key is to be straightforward, concise, and purpose-driven. Consumers today are highly perceptive and can easily identify when something feels inauthentic or purely like a marketing ploy. Authenticity and clarity are non-negotiable. Patagonia’s “Worn Wear” campaign is a masterclass in this. By sharing stories of customers who repair and reuse their gear, Patagonia made sustainability feel personal and inspiring rather than preachy. Effective storytelling like this reinforces brand authenticity and builds stronger consumer connections.

We can always make the decision to buy or not for consumers easier, for example, by introducing new tools. How are digital tools like carbon calculators helping consumers make more informed decisions?

Carbon calculators have transformed how consumers make decisions in sectors like travel and energy, but their impact in fashion is still catching up. Imagine a shopping app that tells you, “Buying this organic cotton dress saves the same CO2 as skipping your daily commute for a week”. These tools have the potential to turn abstract data into tangible insights. While some tools exist, this remains an area ripe for development—and innovation here could redefine sustainable shopping. Having said that, it is not a common practice just yet, maybe this will give somebody a new business idea?

Introducing sustainability to fashion brands is a major investment. And I can imagine a situation when a brand put a lot of effort into DPP or any other sustainability tactic you covered, but failed to inform their clients about the changes they’ve made. That brings me to my next question: how can brands communicate their sustainability efforts via their online presence?

Brands should focus on educating consumers through digital content—clear messaging across websites, social media, and email campaigns. Collaborating with sustainability influencers can humanise the message and make it relatable. Loyalty programs that reward eco-conscious purchases can also drive engagement. Metrics like conversion rates, time spent on sustainability pages, and click-through rates provide valuable insights into what resonates most.

Another topic I’d like to cover, one that has been making waves in the fashion industry recently, is circular fashion. How would you define the circular economy, and what are its core principles in the context of fashion?

In a nutshell, the circular economy in fashion focuses on extending the lifecycle of garments through repair, resale, and recycling. It’s about designing with the end in mind—creating products that can be kept in circulation rather than discarded.

What practices—such as recycling or upcycling—are most promising for implementing circularity in fashion?

Closed-loop recycling and upcycling are two game-changing methods in sustainable fashion. Closed-loop recycling involves breaking down old garments into raw materials, which are then used to produce new fabrics. This approach minimises waste, reduces dependency on virgin resources, and helps create a circular fashion system. Upcycling, on the other hand, takes discarded materials or garments and repurposes them into higher-value products, often with a unique and creative twist like Paolo Carzana’s collections. Both practices not only cut down on environmental impact but also inspire innovation, offering garments a second life while reshaping how we perceive waste and sustainability in the industry.

And what about designing for durability and repairability? How do these concepts influence product development?

Designing for durability means selecting high-quality materials and using robust construction methods. Repairability means creating designs that allow for easy fixes—replaceable zippers, modular components, etc. This approach shifts consumer habits from "dispose" to "repair and rewear".

Could you share case studies for brands like Patagonia or Eileen Fisher and their success in circular fashion?

Patagonia’s “Worn Wear” program encourages customers to repair and trade in used gear, creating a loyal community of eco-conscious consumers. Eileen Fisher’s “Renew” initiative collects worn garments and repurposes them into new designs, showcasing how upcycling can reinforce brand values while reducing waste.

It’s a clicheé, but we live in a rapidly changing world, especially when it comes to brand new technologies. What emerging technologies, such as AI or biodegradable materials, have the potential to revolutionize sustainable fashion?

DPPs, which we talked about earlier, are at the forefront, creating transparency across supply chains. AI is making waves by analysing consumer behaviour and predicting trends, helping brands make more strategic decisions. Biodegradable materials, such as mushroom leather, are also gaining traction, offering eco-friendly alternatives to traditional fabrics.

Sustainability in fashion is driven by many different actors that have to work together, often forming partnerships. How can partnerships between brands, governments, and NGOs drive meaningful change in the industry?

Partnerships combine scale, expertise, and regulatory power. Brands provide the platform, NGOs bring research and credibility, and governments set the rules. These collaborations ensure systemic change by fostering accountability and innovation. But we need transparency first and foremost.

Are there any upcoming trends or innovations that excite you about the future of sustainable fashion?

AI-powered shopping assistants that scan your wardrobe and recommend mindful purchases are on the horizon. Pair that with full DPP integration, and we’re moving toward a future where shopping is not only smarter but also more sustainable. There are many but I would focus on implementing those two and explore their potential first.

Thank you, Blaze for the talk, it’s been extremely informative!